By: John F. Daly III, aka "The TorqueKing".

I purchased this product from www.etruckaccessories.com , an internet company out of Milwaukee, WI.  I chose the Lund product over those offered by other companies like LMC Truck and JC Whitney because of the name brand, and I've heard many positive stories of the overall fit and finish of the Lund products.

Project Total Price

      $141.50, delivered to my front door in 1 week, 5 working days

      (Note:   this is pending the paint, estimated to be no more than $60)

Parts List

     Lund P/N 20003, all necessary equipment included.

Tools List

      Drill

      1/8" and/or 5/32" drill bit

      Ratchet (3/8" drive works best)

      5/16" and 7/8" socket

      13/16" combo or closed wrench

      Sharpie marker or alternate marking device (scratch awl, etc.)

Skills required

      Minor drilling

      Basic fender alignment

A helper is recommended, but not necessary

There are five basic steps involved, as described and illustrated below.

Step 1)  Remove old bumper.   There are two bolts on each framerail that will be holding your stock bumper. You'll need a ratchet to loosen the nut, and a combo/closed end to hold the bolt on the other side.  I found the nut to be a 7/8", and the bolt is 13/16".

This one has seen better days, and many, many rear end collisions by soccer moms not paying attention in their minivans. Beware, your classic will be vulnerable to attack with the new fiberglass smoothie installed!

It's tempting to just send the roll pan back, it looks just too sweet without a bumper at all, sporting the chrome pipes and the ‘ol 9", sending a visual warning to those import kids that you've got command of 300+ ft*lbs of torque! (that is, the ones who actually know what that means)

Fit roll pan in position. Make sure the fiberglass piece fits correctly.  You may need to adjust a few out of place fender pieces in the undercarriage. style="mso-spacerun: yes">  Once you've found the correct position, flush with the tailgate, support it with duct tape. I prefer the "Black" tape, aka "300 MPH" tape, as drag racers refer to it, it's got super-thick vinyl backing and a killer adhesive. Now open and close the tailgate to ensure that it's motion is not hindered by the new piece, and make sure they do not make contact in any position.

You may need a helper here while you tape it in position.  Make sure you have it canted correctly, flush with all body lines.  My "300 MPH" tape didn't leave any residue on my finish, and held it perfectly in place.

Step 3)  Mark the position of the holes to be drilled.   There are two holes on each end that need to be drilled for. The instructions say to use a 1/8" drill bit, but I found that drilling this small of a hole, only 1 of the 4 self-tapping screws would actually engage their threads. I think a 5/32" bit would work better. My initial markings were ½" too low on the first try, so I had to drill it twice.  I used a Sharpie marker to mark the drill location, which barely fit through the holes in the fiberglass.  To reach the metal through the holes on one side, I used a skinnier pencil dipped in shoe edge dressing (Heel and Sole, for those military guys who are all too familiar with this product), which made a distinct mark on the metal on the other side.  Make sure that once you're done, the roll pan is still in the correct position, mine had slipped down about a ½" during the marking process, which I didn't realize until had finished bolting it up.

Here you can see the holes for the self-tapping screws.  This was the difficult side to mark, as my Sharpie marker couldn't reach through the smaller hole to mark the metal.  I used a pencil dipped in Heel and Sole edge dressing.

Step 4)  Drill. My Makita cordless didn't sweat biting through the skimpy undercarriage skin of my truck. Careful not to punch through to the rear lower skin that sits just 4" behind where you'll have to drill.  Make sure you do step #3 (marking) correctly the first time so you won't have to do this step twice like I did.

If you own a Dewalt drill, you might need to reserve an extra hour for this step, as your battery will surely be dead after a few seconds of this intense metal pounding (Chuck). Seriously, this is very easy drilling.

Step 5)  Install Roll Pan and bolt in.   This would be very easy if not for the inconvenient space limitations you have to work with.  If you can get the self-tapping screws to engage, then just throw on a ratchet (5/16" socket), and bolt it down until it's snug, and securing the position of your new roll pan. If the screws won't engage and tap, then repeat Step 4 , except use a 5/32" drill bit. There is a center support bracket that you'll need to drill for on the last crossmember of the frame, behind the gas tank, and then bend the strip that bolts to the center of the license plate area, underneath the plate itself, as necessary.

The product comes in a white primer color, which isn't too mismatched from my Oxford White finish.  I'll have it sprayed later this week, I'll post pictures once I get it done.  I really like the way it showcases the exhaust pipes, but they're not clean in this photo, it was a rainy weekend in Georgia!

-TK